Switching off pigment formation

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is one of the most studied antioxidants for treating pigmentation. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme that drives melanin production, while also reducing oxidized melanin, making existing dark spots appear lighter. In addition, its antioxidant properties protect skin cells from UV-induced damage, which can worsen pigmentation. 

Clinical studies support that regular topical application of stabilized vitamin C, often in concentrations of 10–20%, improves skin brightness, reduces hyperpigmentation, and enhances overall tone. For best results, vitamin C is usually combined with complementary ingredients such as ferulic acid or vitamin E, which increase stability and effectiveness. 

Recommended products: CE Ferulic acid Skinceuticals, use in AM before SPF.

Arbutin is a naturally derived skin-brightening ingredient that works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme involved in melanin production. By slowing this process, arbutin helps fade dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while also preventing new pigmentation from forming. 

It is gentler than hydroquinone, making it well-suited for sensitive skin types or long-term use. Available in both α- and β-forms (with α-arbutin being more stable and effective), it is commonly found in serums, creams, and brightening formulations. Clinical studies support its ability to gradually improve skin tone with consistent use, especially when combined with other pigment correctors such as vitamin C or niacinamide. With regular application and proper sun protection, arbutin can be a useful adjunct against pigment.

Azelaic acid helps treat pigmentation through several key mechanisms. It works as a tyrosinase inhibitor, reducing melanin production at the cellular level, which helps fade dark spots and melasma. Its anti-inflammatory properties also calm irritation that can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, making it particularly useful for acne-prone or sensitive skin. 

Additionally, azelaic acid has keratolytic effects, gently promoting cell turnover to remove pigmented cells on the skin’s surface. Because it is well-tolerated compared to stronger agents like hydroquinone, azelaic acid is often recommended for long-term use to achieve a clearer, more even complexion without significant irritation.

Kojic acid is a naturally derived compound obtained from fungi and fermentation processes (such as sake, soy sauce, or rice wine). It helps with pigmentation primarily by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme involved in melanin production. By slowing this pathway, kojic acid reduces the formation of new pigment, making it effective for conditions like melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun spots. 

In addition to its depigmenting action, kojic acid also provides mild antioxidant properties, which help counter oxidative stress from UV exposure that often worsens pigmentation. It is commonly used in combination with other brightening agents (like vitamin C, arbutin, or glycolic acid) to enhance results. The downside? Kojic acid can sometimes cause skin irritation, so gradual introduction is recommended.

Tranexamic acid is a complex molecule that can be used for treating melasma & post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is most often used as cream in formulations ranging from 2%to 5%, however it can also be injected into the skin, or taken as an oral tablet. Oral formulations are restricted to prescription. Discuss with your dermatologist which is the ideal route of administration.

Rejuran is a polynucleotide molecule used in some cases of melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation & dark circles. Though it is useful in some patients, it is always employed as an adjunct, namely in combination with medical therapy, lasers & chemical peels.

The results of Rejuran are highly dependent on patient selection, product injection technique as well as finding the correct adjunctive treatment.

In melasma patients we occasionally use Rejuran in step 2 and 3 of your pigment treatment cycle, especially in mature onset melasma where it is used to reverse cellular aging & strengthen the dermal layer of skin.  As a guide-

• Rejuran depth of injection is critical for results
• Requires 2-4 sessions spaced 4 to 8 weeks apart
• Best combined with pico lasers & topical creams to reduce pigmentation 
• Is especially useful for mixed causes of dark circles
• Can be used to repair photodamaged skin