Retinoic Acid Peels for Melasma

Retinoic acid peels are gentle superficial peels for melasma pigmentation. They work by gentle exfoliation of the skin in addition to blocking pigment production. This peel is over 1000X stronger than retinol- hence it is useful to improve skin quality, including sun damage, pigment & fine wrinkles. It is best used as a maintenance treatment for melasma.

Recovery

2 - 5 days

Results

14 - 28 days

Treatment Time

5 minutes, 5 sessions required

Aftercare

SPF, moisturizers, pigment inhibitors

Treatment science score

The science of retinoic acid peels for melasma

  • Retinoic acid peels can be useful for treating pigment, including melasma
  • Clearance rates of up to 50% can be achieved with chemical peels
  • They are best used as maintenance peel for melasma
  • Retinoic acid peels can also improve wrinkles, sun damage & photoaging
  • Retinoic acid peels work by chemical exfoliation of pigment plus reducing pigment output
  • Expect peeling for several days following this peel

Retinoic acid peels are classed as superficial peels. They are best used to improve skin quality, including reduction of pigment as well as fine lines, surface irregularities & sun damage. A typical peeling program consists of 5 peels, conducted over 10-12 weeks.

What are retinoic acid peels?

Retinoic acid peels are superficial chemical peels that are useful to treat all forms of pigmentation, including melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, & sun damage.

This peel is like retinol, only 1000X more powerful.

When do we use retinoic acid peels for melasma?

Retinoic acid peels, also known as vitamin A peels or retinoid peels are most useful for melasma maintenance, namely to prevent the recurrence of melasma pigment. We often incorporate this peel after a series of pico laser treatments.

How does this peel work?

Retinoic acid peels work in 3 ways-

  • Chemical exfoliation of melasma pigmentation
  • Repair of sun damage skin seen in melasma patients
  • Reduction of pigment production

What is the recovery process?

This peel has a recovery time of 2- 5 days, depending on the concentration of the peel. Post peeling starts at 48 hours & lasts up to 5 days. During this time makeup can be used, however it does not sit well due to flaky skin. Redness resolves within a week post peel.

Peel type

Recovery

Number required

Efficacy

Retinoic acid 2-5 days 5 **
Cosmelan 7 days 1 ***
AHA peels Nil 5 **

Is it the best peel for melasma?

Cosmelan & Dermamelan peels are the most effective peels for melasma with efficacy rates of up to 60%.

Less effective peels for melasma include TCA peels, AHA peels & retinoic acid peels. These groups of peels can improve melasma by about 50%. The optimal peel type depends on the depth of pigment, your skin type & allocated recovery time.

What results can I expect from a retinoic acid chemical peel?

This peel can reduce most types of pigment, however it does take 4-8 weeks before results are seen. You can expect-

  • Reduction of pigment (by up to 50% or more)
  • More even skin tone, lighter skin tone
  • Reduction in fine wrinkles, reduction of photo damage

A series of 5 sessions are recommended for best outcomes.

How many sessions will I require to clear my melasma?

5 sessions, spaced 2 weeks apart. Retinoic acid peels work by gentle exfoliation of the skin’s surface, in turn clearing superficial pigmentation. Retinoids also inhibit the enzyme that produces melanin.

Results can be seen at the 4 week mark, maximal results are seen in 2-3 months.

What are the other skin benefits of retinoic acid peels?

Retinoids are powerful molecules in dermatology. Apart from pigment reduction, this peel can also give the following results-

  • Reduction of sun spots & sun damage including pre-cancerous solar keratosis
  • Reduction of fine lines & wrinkles
  • Reduction of enlarged pores, acne & blemishes
  • Increase in collagen levels
  • Decrease in photoaging

What is the treatment like?

This peel is performed in the office. After preparing your skin your clinician will apply the peel. The solution is left on for a period of 1 to 6 hours, depending on the level of pigmentation. It is then washed off at the convenience of your own home.

What is the fastest & safest solution for melasma?

Picosecond lasers employ ultrashort pulses of light to safely shatter unwanted pigment without heating the skin. They provide the fastest & most effective way of improving skin quality, including clearing of melasma pigment.

As compared to chemical peels, Picosecond lasers have no downtime & are 20-25% more effective as compared to Cosmelan or Dermamelan peels & far more effective than retinoic acid peels.

Treatment Type

Works

Number of Sessions

Recovery

Retinoic acid peels Works in 40% of melasma cases 4-5 sessions 2-4 day recovery
Cosmelan Peels Works in 55% of cases 1 peel session 7 day recovery
Dermamelan Peels Works in 60% of melasma cases 1 peel session 8+ day recovery
This concept is grasped by only a handful of patients as most melasma patients can not see beyond pigmentation itself. Those who get it will have a much higher probability of long term remission 💯
.
👉Rate limiting factors: ability to understand the cause of melasma beyond pigment, the time required to remodel the dermis, especially in skin of colour, financial constraints as dermal remodelling goes far beyond ‘retinol-retinoids’, RFM, lasers & EBDs or the ubiquitous & over-rated Cosmelan peel
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasma #melasmatips #photoaging #melasmaclinic #celluaraging #drdavinlim

This concept is grasped by only a handful of patients as most melasma patients can not see beyond pigmentation itself. Those who get it will have a much higher probability of long term remission 💯
.
👉Rate limiting factors: ability to understand the cause of melasma beyond pigment, the time required to remodel the dermis, especially in skin of colour, financial constraints as dermal remodelling goes far beyond ‘retinol-retinoids’, RFM, lasers & EBDs or the ubiquitous & over-rated Cosmelan peel
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasma #melasmatips #photoaging #melasmaclinic #celluaraging #drdavinlim
...

204 4
The use of antioxidants such as glutathione can lighten & brighten skin. Glutathione can be a useful adjunct in some cases of #melasma
.
🔫Pico lasers: can safely be used to treat various types of pigmentation. A series of 3-5 sessions produce the best results, however in this patient only one treatment was performed. Settings matter
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#sunscreen #picolaser #picosurepro #drdavinlim #davinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic #glutathione #skinlightening

The use of antioxidants such as glutathione can lighten & brighten skin. Glutathione can be a useful adjunct in some cases of #melasma
.
🔫Pico lasers: can safely be used to treat various types of pigmentation. A series of 3-5 sessions produce the best results, however in this patient only one treatment was performed. Settings matter
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#sunscreen #picolaser #picosurepro #drdavinlim #davinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic #glutathione #skinlightening
...

69 4
If the proper amount of sunscreen is used, anything over an SPF of 40 is fine (in the context of melasma). Other than SPF factor (a measure of UVB), UVA ratings & attenuation of visible light is super important in the management of pigmentary disorders such as melasma & post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in skin of colour
.
👉Cosmetic elegance & colour matching: is often the rate limiting factor
.
👉Why tint? Iron oxides protect against visible light, this band of light stimulates pigment
.
👉How to use? Two fingerlengths, twice daily, regardless of exposure💯
.
👉Our pick? Elta MD, acknowledging there are many good brands with a wider range of colour matching
.
Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#sunscreen #melasmatips #bestsunscreen #spf #drdavinlim #davinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic #elta #eltaMD #eltasunscreens

If the proper amount of sunscreen is used, anything over an SPF of 40 is fine (in the context of melasma). Other than SPF factor (a measure of UVB), UVA ratings & attenuation of visible light is super important in the management of pigmentary disorders such as melasma & post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in skin of colour
.
👉Cosmetic elegance & colour matching: is often the rate limiting factor
.
👉Why tint? Iron oxides protect against visible light, this band of light stimulates pigment
.
👉How to use? Two fingerlengths, twice daily, regardless of exposure💯
.
👉Our pick? Elta MD, acknowledging there are many good brands with a wider range of colour matching
.
Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#sunscreen #melasmatips #bestsunscreen #spf #drdavinlim #davinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic #elta #eltaMD #eltasunscreens
...

45 2

How does Cosmelan peel compare with retinoic acid peels for melasma?

Cosmelan & Dermamelan peels are much more effective than TCA peels for melasma as they address the primary cause of melasma.

The Melasma Clinic difference

Our specialist clinic is overseen by dermatologists who provide a comprehensive & bespoke approach to skin care. We take into account the complexity and individuality of your skin. Our pigment solutions include preventing future recurrences of melasma. Our ethos is to improve & maintain your skin’s health & vitality as an ongoing commitment to our patients.

Dr Davin Lim

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How to treat PIGMENTATION

If I can identify the cause of pigmentation, chances are I can treat it. This can only be achieved with careful real time examination…

More of our mostFrequently asked questions

What skin care ingredients do we combine with retinoic acid peels?

What is the cost of retinoic acid peeling for melasma?

What aftercare is required post peels?

Can all skin types & ethnicities be treated with retinoic acid peels?

What are the side effects of retinoic acid peels?

Who performs the procedure?

How does retinoic acid peeling compare with AHA peels such as glycolic acid?

How does retinoic acid peels compare with retinol?

A SummaryDavin’s tip on retinoic acid peeling for melasma pigment

Dr Davin Lim | Dermatologist

One of my favorite peeling agents for skin maintenance, this is what I term a VitaPeel or Vitamin A peel. In the context of melasma pigment, superficial peels can be useful, however it’s a tricky one to modulate primarily because of superficial peeling with high strength retinoids. The duration of peeling depends on many factors including-

  • Strength of peel
  • Pre-prep of skin (priming agents) as well as acetone prescrub
  • How long the peel is left on for
  • Individual factors such as age & skin sensitivity

This peel is best used as a maintenance peeling agent, once we have achieved good pigment clearance. Unlike AHA peels, retinoic acid peels don’t require a step up program. The downside of this peel is the prolonged downtime of up to one week.
I personally use this peeling technique for my skin; namely a high strength mix of tretinoin & trifarotene every 2 to 6 weeks. This is what we term ‘pulsed’ therapy.