Recovery
Results
Treatment Time
Aftercare
The science of treating lip pigmentation
- Understanding the cause of lip pigmentation is the first step in treatment
- Acquired causes such as sun spots & freckles respond best to treatments
- Genetic causes of lip pigmentation are harder to treat
- Pico lasers provide the best results with minimal downtime
- Chemical peels are outdated
- Pigment correcting creams can augment the results following laser pigment removal
The picosecond laser has revolutionized lip pigmentation treatments. Lasers give far superior results compared to chemical peels, with faster recovery & less side effects.
What causes lip pigmentation?
A simple way to understand lip pigmentation is to divide it into 2 types, acquired (easy to treat), genetic pigment (harder to treat, but lightening is possible).
Acquired causes include sun spots, sun damage & freckles.
Genetic pigment is known as constitutional. It is your DNA make up that determines your lip color. Lasers can lighten lip color, however it can not change your DNA.
What is the best way to treat lip pigmentation?
Pico lasers are the best method to lighten lip pigmentation. We use different types of lasers depending on depth & cause of lip pigmentation.
Lasers have replaced chemical peels as they offer safer & more predictable results with little to no downtime. Some forms of lip pigment can be cleared in one session, whilst genetic causes require several sessions for best results.
Can creams fade lip pigmentation?
Creams have a marginal effect on lip pigmentation, they are best used to maintain the results following laser treatments. Lip pigmentation creams can be divided into –
- Exfoliation creams & balms: Skin care acids; lactic, glycolic, retinoic acid
- Pigment creams & balms: Kojic acid, vitamin C, arbutin, HQ
Read more to understand the best formulations (end of this page).
What results can I expect from a laser?
Pico lasers have the highest probability of treating lip pigmentation, with up to 95% success rates.
Excellent outcomes in: freckling of the lower lip, age spots, sun induced pigmentation.
Variable outcomes in: genetic pigmentation, lip lightening.
Pico lasers for lip pigmentation
- Take 1-3 minutes to perform
- Can be painless with numbing cream prior
- Provides effective pigmentation removal with less risks & no downtime
How many sessions will I need?
For acquired cases of pigmentation, 1-2 laser sessions.
For lip lightening & genetic cause of pigmentation, 4 sessions, spaced 2-4 weeks apart.
Our Gallery of Results
What is the best way to treat freckles on the lips?
Lip freckles or lentigos are best treated with pico or short pulse nano lasers. Here is the summary-
- One to two sessions of laser required
- Lip heals within 3-6 days
- Take one minute to perform
- Painless with numbing cream
- Performed by our dermatologist
*For unusual cases of solitary lip pigmentation, a shave biopsy with curative intent may be suggested to exclude skin cancer – melanoma.
What is pigmentation on the upper lips?
The area of skin between your upper lip & nose is a frequent area of involvement for melasma pigmentation. This form of pigmentation is managed with medical therapy using pigment correctors & pico lasers.
Upper lip melasma is more resistant to treatment compared to other areas of melasma.
The Melasma Clinic treats all forms of pigmentation including upper lip pigment due to melasma as well as lasers & novel peels to lighten the lips. The ideal treatment depends on the type of pigmentation.
What is genetically determined lip pigmentation & how to treat?
Dark lips are often genetically determined. They are common in skin of color occurring in Indian, Sri Lankan, African & darker skin types. They can be resistant to pigmentation creams, however in most cases we can achieve a variable degree of pigmentation lightening using pigment lasers. Successful lightning can be achieved in 70% of cases.
Genetic dark lips
- Best treated; pico lasers. 3-5 sessions
- Combined with bleaching creams & SPF
- No downtime
- Variable remission
Will pigment recur after treatment?
Once cleared, some forms of lip pigmentation will not recur. These include solitary labial melanotic macules, whilst freckles often have many years of remission.
Genetically dark lips will revert back to the natural state after lip lightening, however the use of pigment correctors & lip balm will slow down this process. Most patients will get 1-4 years of lightning.
What are the best ingredients for treating lip pigmentation?
Here are some of the ingredients we mix in order to lighten lips & address pigmentation. The ideal mix depends on your pigment type & skin sensitivity.
Arbutin: A milder skin-brightening agent, arbutin can effectively reduce lip hyperpigmentation. While it works similarly to hydroquinone, it is less potent and causes less irritation. Available over-the-counter, it is suitable for those with moderate hyperpigmentation and lighter skin tones.
Kojic Acid: An over-the-counter option, kojic acid can help lighten pigmentation on the lips. It’s often used alongside other ingredients like vitamins C and E, which enhance its effectiveness and add antioxidant benefits.
Tranexamic Acid: Known for its brightening and anti-inflammatory properties, tranexamic acid is effective at treating lip hyperpigmentation, particularly when caused by melasma or sun damage.
Azelaic Acid: This agent has anti-inflammatory properties and can help fade pigmentation. Because it is gentle, it’s especially useful for individuals with sensitive skin.
Hydroquinone: Widely regarded as the “gold standard” for skin lightening, hydroquinone works by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production. However, because it can cause irritation, particularly on the delicate skin of the lips, it must be used carefully and only with a prescription. Short-term use is common due to potential risks like rebound hyperpigmentation and ochronosis.
Retinoids: Retinoids, from over-the-counter retinol to prescription tretinoin, promote cell turnover and can help fade lip hyperpigmentation. However, they can cause irritation and may not be suitable for everyone. For more stubborn cases, consulting a specialist is recommended, particularly if prescription-strength tretinoin is needed. They can provide guidance on how to use it safely for the lips
How to prevent lip pigmentation?
Lip darkening caused by external factors can be prevented, here is how to do it-
Sun Protection: Always shield your lips from the sun. Use a lip balm with SPF 50 at least 2-4 times daily.
Choose Lip Products Wisely:If you have sensitive skin, opt for hypoallergenic lip products.
Quit Smoking: If you smoke, consider quitting to prevent lip discoloration.
Keep your lips moisturized, exfoliate them gently, and apply sunscreen specifically for lips every day. If you have genetic causes of lip pigmentation, no amount of prevention will help as we can not alter your DNA make up.
What is the best SPF lip balm to use?
Here is our pick, acknowledging that application frequency (at least 3-4 times a day) is more important than ingredients or branding.
Ultra Violette Sheen Screen SPF 50 Hydrating Lip Balm
Ultra Violette makes amazing sunscreens & lip balms. Ultra Violette Sheen Screen SPF 50 Hydrating Lip Balm comes in four shades, including Peach, Rose, Nude & Shimmer. They give great color matching, covering 90% of lip shades.
Aesop Protective Lip Balm SPF30
Enhanced with UVA and UVB filters to shield your lips from the sun’s rays, while added botanical oils help hydrate with no white residue. Cost effective.
Sunsense Lip Balm SPF50
Broad-spectrum protection (that is, protection against both UVA and UVB rays) It contains moisturizing vitamin E & cocoa butter. 4 hours water resistant. Best bang for your buck, with the downside of poor color match for darker lips.
Dr Davin Lim
650K subscribersPicosure Pro or short pulse Hollywood lasers are the best lasers to address lip pigmentation. Pigmentation due to sun damage can be treated in 1-2 sessions, whilst genetic pigmentation requires more sessions.
More of our mostFrequently asked questions
Can TCA peels be done on the lips?
What are natural ways to get rid of lip pigmentation?
Is hydroquinone safe on the lips?
Does retinol work for lip pigmentation?
Is kojic acid effective for lip lightening?
Does hyaluronic acid work for lip pigmentation?
Can melanoma occur on the lips?
What other conditions can present as pigment on the lips?
What other types of lasers do we use to treat lip pigmentation?
Who performs the procedures?
What is the cost for lip lightening & pigment removal?
What causes white discolouration of the lips?
How to treat lip hyperpigmentation from a chemical peel?
Can liquid nitrogen or cryotherapy be effective in treating spots on the lips?
A Summary Treating lip pigmentation
Dr Davin Lim | Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic, Brisbane | Sydney
I will keep it short & sweet. Lip pigmentation that is predictable & amenable to treatment include freckles, lengigo, solarity melanocytic labial macules, venous lakes & pigmented solar keratosis. All of these lesions are treated with laser, either pico or ablative CO2. One to two sessions, & the job is done. These are classified as acquired lesions, namely not genetic based (within reason, exceptions include genodermatoses).
Lip pigmentation that is not as predictable to lighten are genetic cases. Why? Because as of 2025 we do not have a method to alter your DNA that is genetically determined, much like how we can’t alter height or IQ. What we can do (in some but not all cases) is to lighten the shade of your lips by 1-2 shades lighter, acknowledging that over time & sun exposure, you WILL regress back to your constitutional (genetically predetermined pigment).
Genetically predetermined lip color can be faded with a combination of lip balm (SPF 50+, tinted),exfoliation, pigment correctors & procedures. The most important of these three is lip balm. Why? UVB, UVA & VL or visible light can stimulate pigment production, resulting in rebound back to the natural skin color.
Exfoliation can provide a marginal improvement in lip color. My simple formulation is with 8-12% lactic acid plus tretinoin 0.025 to 0.5% compounded +/- pigment correctors such as arbutin, kojic acid or ascorbic acid. This can be initially used twice a week, increasing as tolerated.
Next up, pigment correctors. We do not like stand alone kojic acid, acknowledging these can be sourced online. A mix of retinoids, chemical exfoliators (BHA-AHA) coupled with licorice root, arbutin & vitamin C is better.
Lasers. Although fast results can be achieved with ablative lasers, namely erbium, YSGG, & CO2, the rate of PIH is increased (especially with CO2 lasers). The super long healing times with ablative lasers is another concern. Since 2016 we have been using short pulsed photoacoustic lasers, namely the Picoway, Picosure & for 2025 the Picosure Pro. These lasers are much better as they have less downtime, risks & costs. Depending on the type of pigmentation, 1 to 4 sessions spaced 2-4 weeks does the job.