Cosmelan Melasma Peel

The Cosmelan system is a dermatologist-grade peel that addresses melasma & other types of pigmentation to create a clearer complexion. Cosmelan is a two-part chemical peel that consists of the in-office application of Cosmelan followed by home maintenance skincare including the Cosmelan 2 depigmenting cream. 

Recovery

7 - 14 days

Results

7+ days

Treatment Time

30 minutes

Aftercare

SPF + Cosmelan 2

Treatment science score

The Science of Cosmelan

  • This peel is best for melasma pigmentation
  • Part 1 of Cosmelan involves an in-office peel
  • This peel has a recovery of 7 to 14 days
  • The Cosmelan depigmentation cycle lasts 3 months
  • Part 2 of the Cosmelan system involves at home use of Cosmelan 2
  • Cosmelan can also fade pigment due to age spots & dark post inflammatory marks
  • The second part of the process maintains & amplifies the result from the peel
  • Home use included in the system is not associated with any recovery time

The Cosmelan Peel is one of the fastest ways to treat melasma pigmentation, however it is associated with a prolonged recovery of one to two weeks. Regardless, it can be useful for patients wanting immediate results with only one treatment.

What is Cosmelan?

Cosmelan is a novel peeling system for melasma that involves 2 steps- an in-office chemical peel mask, followed by an at home treatment program. It has a high efficacy rate for treating melasma, albeit a long recovery phase of up to 2 weeks. 

What is involved with the Cosmelan system for melasma?

Step one starts with an application of the mask-peel in the office. This solution is washed off at home after 8 to 12 hours. It takes up to 14 days to recover from this first step.  

Step two, day 14 to 3 months. Home skin care with the Cosmelan 2. This next phase amplifies the results from step one. The Cosmelan peel program lasts 3 months. 

What conditions does Cosmelan treat?

Melasma is the standout condition that Cosmelan treats well. Other conditions that can respond to this peel include sunspots, age spots,  dark acne scarring, & post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

How good is it for melasma?

Cosmelan is an effective treatment for melasma pigmentation with a success rate of 60-70%. It sits below the efficacy of Picosure Pro & medical management, however Cosmelan is a once off peel, with a downtime of up to two weeks. 

Melasma treatment method

Downtime / recovery

Number of sessions

Efficacy / costs

Cosmelan 7-14 days 1 +++/$$$
Pico + medical 0 days 4 ++++/$$$

When do we recommend the Cosmelan peel?

Cosmelan has a narrow window of application. It is best employed for –

  • Superficial or mixed melasma
  • For patients with an allocated downtime of up to 14 days
  • For non-sensitive skin types 

*For age spots, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation & sun spots, lasers offer better results.

What results can I expect?

Pigment starts to improve at the one week mark & will continue to improve over the next few weeks. Maximal results are seen at 6 -12 weeks. 

*Not all cases of melasma will respond to Cosmelan, it has an efficacy rate of up to 70%. Cosmelan has a long safety record with over one million cases treated worldwide. 

How long do the results last?

Results following Cosmelan vary considerably, in general melasma clearance ranges from 2 to 12 months. Limiting UV exposure & maintaining a prescribed at home maintenance program will help you achieve a clear, radiant & even toned-pigment free complexion.

How many sessions are required?

Results can be seen after just one session, visible as early as 10 days after the peel. Over the next few months your skin will continue to improve. 

What is the recovery following the peel?

Recovery takes 7-14 days & goes like this-

Day 0-3: red, warm, irritate skin
Day 3-9: peeling, flaky & dry
Day 9+: less scale, less red, skin recovering 

Recovery from Cosmelan is significant & often underestimated by patients. Other low downtime – no downtime procedures include-

Vi Precision peel: little to no downtime, but requires 2-3 sessions.
Pico lasers: no downtime, gentle & more effective compared to the Cosmelan peel .

What sets The Melasma Clinic apart from other Cosmelan peel providers?

At The Melasma Clinic we give you options for removing pigment. We are experts in all forms of peeling, including TCA, AHA, Cosmelan, Dermamelan & retinoic acid peels. We also have a selection of lasers that can treat melasma pigment without any downtime. 

Cosmelan is a good option for patients who can take up to 2 weeks off, however you may want to discuss other treatment options with our clinicians. We individually tailor treatments for every one of our patients. 

How does the Cosmelan peel program work?

The Cosmelan system combines active ingredients with proven scientific value. These ingredients block pigment or melanin production. Cosmelan also inhibits the formation of new pigments. In more detail, it works by- 

  • Accelerates epidermal turnover to remove the accumulation of melanin pigment
  • Reduces the amount of melanin formation
  • Blocks the transfer of melanin from the melanocyte to the skin cells
  • Blocks the migration of pigment to epidermal layers of the skin
  • Inhibits the synthesis of melanin within melanocytes

How do I use Cosmelan 2, following the Cosmelan peel?

Cosmelan 2 is the stage 2 of the Cosmelan program. This cream contains pigment correctors to be used as part of your at home routine. Our team will guide you as to when to transition to the second part of your routine. 

Cosmelan 2 can be used once or twice daily, depending on how sensitive your skin is. Our clinicians will monitor your progress & guide you accordingly. If you have skin irritation, we will modulate your application to ensure your treatments are comfortable, yet still effective. 

Understanding pigmentation is the very first step in effectively treating pigment

Our clinicians are trained by dermatologists to correctly identify the level of pigment & employ the very latest lasers & chemical peels to predictably & safely remove unwanted pigment in all skin types, including complex pigmentation in Asian or ethnic skin.

Can I use Cosmelan if I have sensitive skin?

Cosmelan is not advisable if you have sensitive skin as the peel is irritating as is Cosmelan 2 (contains skin acids such as kojic & ascorbic in addition to retinoids). 

For patients with sensitive skin, we prefer to use pico lasers & medical therapy. Complex cases are managed by our dermatologist. 

How do I maintain the results I have achieved?

The Cosmelan kit has enough for 3 months of treatment, however we know that melasma is recurrent, here is how we solve this problem-

  • Option of continuing Cosmelan 2
  • Transition to our laser or peel program
  • Medical therapy by our clinicians to maintain result
  • Addressing the dermal component of melasma with energy based devices, biostimulator injectables & prescriptive skin care

We tailor each & every patient according to their melasma pattern, lifestyle choices & skin goals.

Is laser a better option than Cosmelan for melasma?

Picosure laser can clear up melasma pigmentation within a few short weeks. Results are seen as early as one week after treatment, however best results take 8-10 weeks. The upside of the laser is that it has no recovery time & provides a higher clearance of melasma. 

Treatment

Recovery

Number of sessions

Efficacy / costs

Picosure Pro 0 days 4 80+% effective
Cosmelan 14 days 1 60+% effective

What is the difference between Dermamelan & Cosmelan?

Dermamelan peeling is more intense compared to Cosmelan & offers marginally better results. Dermamelan has a longer recovery period compared to other peels. 

Can Cosmelan be used to treat other areas of skin darkening?

Yes, Cosmelan can be used on areas such as the back, chest, elbows & knees. It is not recommended for flexural areas such as the underarm, groin or genital areas.

Whilst this peel can be used to treat dark elbows & knees, the efficacy rate is low.

What are the side effects of Cosmelan?

Side effects are different from expected effects (peeling & recovery of about one week). Rarely side effects can occur & include-

  • Allergies to active ingredients of Cosmelan
  • Melasma rebound
  • Prolonged redness & itching
  • Textural changes post peeling
  • Blotchy skin

Can the Cosmelan peel be used on all skin types?

Yes. Darker skin types will require a longer leave on period compared to lighter skin types.

How does Cosmelan peel compare with Vi Precision peels?

Cosmelan gives slightly better results than the Vi Peel in one session, however the downside is the prolonged recovery process of Cosmelan, often taking up to 12-14 days.

Vi Precision peel requires 2-3 sessions, with the end result being similar to Cosmelan, however it is not associated with prolonged recovery or itch, as compared to Cosmelan. 

For busy people who can’t afford to take 2 weeks of work & exercise; go with Vi Precision peel. For faster results, albeit a long recovery, consider Cosmelan.

Does Cosmelan contain hydroquinone?

In Australia, Cosmelan is free from hydroquinone, however in other parts of the world hydroquinone can be formulated with this peel. This is termed Cosmelan MD.  

The active ingredients of Cosmelan include kojic & ascorbic acids in addition to a retinoid. 

Picosure Pro as adjunctive therapy for melasma
.
🔫Lasers vs Peels: lasers provide better remodelling of skin, leading to longer remission times as compared to novel peels such as Cosmelan. Additionally lasers (pico) have no downtime nor skin irritation as compared to superficial peeling systems. They do however take several sessions (2-5) for optimal results
.
👉Tip: tailor melasma treatment according to the patient. Understand the potential as well as the limitations of peels, skin care, medical therapy, injectables & energy devices for melasma to formulate a plan based upon the individual 
. 
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#picosure #picosuresurepro #picolaser #melasmatreatment #themelasmaclinic #sydneydermatologist #drdavinlim

Picosure Pro as adjunctive therapy for melasma
.
🔫Lasers vs Peels: lasers provide better remodelling of skin, leading to longer remission times as compared to novel peels such as Cosmelan. Additionally lasers (pico) have no downtime nor skin irritation as compared to superficial peeling systems. They do however take several sessions (2-5) for optimal results
.
👉Tip: tailor melasma treatment according to the patient. Understand the potential as well as the limitations of peels, skin care, medical therapy, injectables & energy devices for melasma to formulate a plan based upon the individual
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#picosure #picosuresurepro #picolaser #melasmatreatment #themelasmaclinic #sydneydermatologist #drdavinlim
...

74 3
Novel peels are useful for some cases of melasma. At the clinic we employ these peels for individuals who travel to our clinic from far. Peels have the advantage over lasers, namely less sessions to deliver similar outcomes (in actual fact, lasers are better with a ‘hit’ rate of 80-85% as compared to peels with 60-70% success)
.
🍌Peels: We have the Dermamelan, Cosmelan, novel Melanopro & Vi Precision peels as well as Jesser, TCA, salicylic acid, AHA, & retinoic acid peels. We perform focal phenol peels, but not segmental phenol peels for melasma as the risks are too high for our mode of practice
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasmaclinic #melasma #melasmatips #dermamelan #cosmelan #cosmelanpeel #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist #melanopropeel 
.
Disclaimer: lighting slightly different in exposure settings as different camera systems are employed.

Novel peels are useful for some cases of melasma. At the clinic we employ these peels for individuals who travel to our clinic from far. Peels have the advantage over lasers, namely less sessions to deliver similar outcomes (in actual fact, lasers are better with a ‘hit’ rate of 80-85% as compared to peels with 60-70% success)
.
🍌Peels: We have the Dermamelan, Cosmelan, novel Melanopro & Vi Precision peels as well as Jesser, TCA, salicylic acid, AHA, & retinoic acid peels. We perform focal phenol peels, but not segmental phenol peels for melasma as the risks are too high for our mode of practice
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasmaclinic #melasma #melasmatips #dermamelan #cosmelan #cosmelanpeel #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist #melanopropeel
.
Disclaimer: lighting slightly different in exposure settings as different camera systems are employed.
...

137 15
Picosure Pro can be useful in highly motivated & educated patients as adjunctive therapy for melasma pigmentation
.
👉Results can be seen in as little as 2 weeks, however a series of 3-5 sessions provides the best outcome
.
👉Success rate: 80-85%. Melasma can be significantly improved in most, but not all cases. Pico lasers are best combined with medical therapy for optimal outcomes
.
📅Remission: varies according to radiation exposure, hormonal influx, topical usage, maintenance treatments & adjunctive procedures💯
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasmaclinic #melasma #melasmatips #picosure #picolaser #picosurepro #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist 
Disclaimer: lighting slightly different in exposure settings as different camera systems are employed.

Picosure Pro can be useful in highly motivated & educated patients as adjunctive therapy for melasma pigmentation
.
👉Results can be seen in as little as 2 weeks, however a series of 3-5 sessions provides the best outcome
.
👉Success rate: 80-85%. Melasma can be significantly improved in most, but not all cases. Pico lasers are best combined with medical therapy for optimal outcomes
.
📅Remission: varies according to radiation exposure, hormonal influx, topical usage, maintenance treatments & adjunctive procedures💯
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasmaclinic #melasma #melasmatips #picosure #picolaser #picosurepro #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist
Disclaimer: lighting slightly different in exposure settings as different camera systems are employed.
...

83 2
Melasma can be effectively treated in most cases with a combination of medical therapy as well as energy based devices & novel peels
.
👉This case: Lutronic Q switch nano short pulse (5ns) laser. 5 sessions, spaced 2 weeks apart
.
🔫Laser concepts: low fluence 1064 nm q switching reduces melanin transfer to cells, reduces melanin production, vaporises the stratum corneum allowing better penetration of topicals, shrinks down the dendritic arms of the melanocyte & has limited shattering of pigment particles. Flares are uncommon, results are seen in over 80% of cases
.
👍🏻Laser: Lutronic Hollywood Spectra: is the gold standard in QSL nano laser technology, it has an excellent beam profile with a short pulse duration with super accurate & steady state fluence. 
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#lutronic #hollywoodspectra #dermaltoning #toninglaser #melasma #melasmaclinic #drdavinlim #melasmatreatment

Melasma can be effectively treated in most cases with a combination of medical therapy as well as energy based devices & novel peels
.
👉This case: Lutronic Q switch nano short pulse (5ns) laser. 5 sessions, spaced 2 weeks apart
.
🔫Laser concepts: low fluence 1064 nm q switching reduces melanin transfer to cells, reduces melanin production, vaporises the stratum corneum allowing better penetration of topicals, shrinks down the dendritic arms of the melanocyte & has limited shattering of pigment particles. Flares are uncommon, results are seen in over 80% of cases
.
👍🏻Laser: Lutronic Hollywood Spectra: is the gold standard in QSL nano laser technology, it has an excellent beam profile with a short pulse duration with super accurate & steady state fluence.
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#lutronic #hollywoodspectra #dermaltoning #toninglaser #melasma #melasmaclinic #drdavinlim #melasmatreatment
...

251 14
Retinoids such as #tretinoin & retinol can be useful in addressing melasma pigmentation. Best applied at night due to photosensitivity
.
👉Vitamin C: can be used as an antioxidant or as a pigment corrector. Personally I prefer patients to apply in the am, under sunscreen
.
👉Azelaic acid: can be applied twice daily
.
👉Glycolic acid: can be potentially photosensitising (in theory, however practically not too much of an issue) 
.
👉Pigment correctors: generally applied in the PM, with exceptions such as #thiamidol, azelaic acid, HQ that can be applied twice daily depending on other skincare actives
.
👉Sunscreen: at least twice daily, AM & midday application
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasma #melasmatips #skincaretips #melasmaclinic #davinlim #melasmatreatment #themelasmaclinic #sydneydermatologist

Retinoids such as #tretinoin & retinol can be useful in addressing melasma pigmentation. Best applied at night due to photosensitivity
.
👉Vitamin C: can be used as an antioxidant or as a pigment corrector. Personally I prefer patients to apply in the am, under sunscreen
.
👉Azelaic acid: can be applied twice daily
.
👉Glycolic acid: can be potentially photosensitising (in theory, however practically not too much of an issue)
.
👉Pigment correctors: generally applied in the PM, with exceptions such as #thiamidol, azelaic acid, HQ that can be applied twice daily depending on other skincare actives
.
👉Sunscreen: at least twice daily, AM & midday application
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic
Sydney, Australia🇦🇺
.
#melasma #melasmatips #skincaretips #melasmaclinic #davinlim #melasmatreatment #themelasmaclinic #sydneydermatologist
...

151 5

What types of melasma are resistant to Cosmelan peels?

Though effective in most cases of melasma, Cosmelan has a failure rate of 35-40%. 

Certain patterns of melasma are more resistant to treatment, including –

  • Dermal melasma
  • Erythrotelangiectatic melasma
  • Rebound melasma, especially microneedling
  • Jawline melasma

Understanding the level of pigmentation & melasma subtype will improve your chances of success. 

Should I discontinue my skin care before the Cosmelan Peel?

It is important to stop all retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin), alpha hydroxy acids & other exfoliants 7 days before the Cosmelan peel. Using these products can increase the penetration of ‘actives’, which may prolong the recovery process. 

When should I restart my skincare routine post peel?

Post Cosmelan peel, you will be transitioning the Cosmelan 2 program which entails the use of products to be used at home. The key ingredients for this second stage include Kojic acid, ascorbic acid, & a retinoid. Refrain from your own skincare line when using Cosmelan 2.  

The Melasma Clinic difference

Our specialist clinic can effectively treat pigmentation in all skin types, employing bespoke treatment protocols that consist of skin care actives, picosecond lasers, clinical peels & in some cases prescriptive medication. With 20 years of dermatology behind us, we can manage all forms of pigmentation, from melasma, through to post inflammatory pigment.

Dr Davin Lim

645K subscribers

How to treat PIGMENTATION

If I can identify the cause of pigmentation, chances are I can treat it. This can only be achieved with careful real time examination…

More of our mostFrequently asked questions

Can Cosmelan make melasma worse?

How does Cosmelan compare to alpha hydroxy acid peels?

How does Cosmelan compare with Fraxel?

How does Cosmelan compare with Melanopro peel?

What about Cosmelan vs microneedling for melasma?

What about Cosmelan vs TCA peels for melasma?

Can I just use the Cosmelan 2 without the Cosmelan mask?

What is Cosmelan MD Depigmentation treatment?

What sunscreen is included in the Cosmelan pack?

Can I do Cosmelan at home?

Can Cosmelan be used when I am pregnant?

Does Cosmelan treat wrinkles?

Does Cosmelan cure melasma?

Why didn’t Cosmelan work for my melasma?

A SummaryMelasma treatments with Cosmelan Peels

Dr Davin Lim | Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic, Brisbane | Sydney

Though a useful treatment for melasma, the Cosmelan & Dermamelan peel systems are hampered by two main issues, firstly the downtime of 7 to 14 days, secondly the lower efficacy rates as compared to pico lasers & medical management. 

The Cosmelan Peel is considered as a commercial peel, namely it can be bought in any clinic, shop or spa without prescription, regulation or training. We disagree with the literature regarding the near 100% efficacy with Meso Aesthetics self funded research papers. We do, however, agree that this peeling system is one of the easiest to master, namely clean the face, put on a mask, and wash off in 10 hours. 

The two biggest shortfalls of this peel are-

Firstly: the peel does not address long term results, namely a game plan for recurrent melasma (most forms are recurrent). The company says ‘repeat in 12 months’, however most will have recurrence sooner. 

Secondly: the peel does not address cellular aging associated with melasma, namely dermal remodelling. We now know that melasma is far beyond ‘pigment’ production. It is an interplay between cellular aging due to senescence (getting older intrinsically) as well as photoaging due to UV & visible light. Higher chances of remission from melasma are achieved if the dermis is remodelled.