Sunscreens for melasma

What is the melasma sunscreen summary?

• 3 key factors that contribute to melasma include genes, hormone & sun exposure
• Of these 3, we can only control sun exposure
• Learning how to properly use sunscreen is the key to melasma management
• 2 types of sunscreens are recommended, daily & activity
• 2 finger length of SPF provides coverage for the face & neck
• 2 applications are required, namely 2 times a day
• Tinted sunscreens offer better protection against blue & visible light

Why is sunscreen & sun protection vital in melasma management?

Melasma & most forms of pigmentation are stimulated by UV radiation & visible light. All other melasma factors (genes & hormones) can not be controlled by yourself, only solar radiation is within your control.

This is why correct application of sunscreen is pivotal in the management of melasma. If you do not understand how to properly apply sunscreen, the chances of pigment removal is very slim. 

What type/s of sunscreens are best for melasma?

A high factor SPF 50+ tinted sunscreen is recommended. You need tinting because it stops HEV or blue light from entering the skin. Blue light makes melasma & post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation worse. 

If you want some recommendations- 

1. Elta MD 
2. La Roche Posay 50+ Tinted
3. Melan130 (expensive)
4. UltraViolette sunscreens (expensive)
5. Ilia range of sun blocks, tinted. 

How to apply?

Twice daily minimum. This may not be convenient for some patients, so here are practical alternatives-

AM: SPF with tint under makeup (tinted, this offers a higher concentration of iron oxide for added protection against blue light).

Reapplication options: You have 3 choices.

1. Reapplication of sunscreen around midday or early afternoon.
2. Tinted sunscreen sticks to areas of pigmentation. A stick formulation is better than nothing .
3. Sunscreen spray; less than ideal as sprays do not offer protection in the visible light spectrum. 

Why is tinting essential for melasma treatment?

Tinting or tinted sunscreens contain iron oxide. This protects against blue & visible light (also known as high energy visible light or HEV). If your sunscreen is not tinted*, you are getting exposed to visible light, hence your sun protection is incomplete. 

*Other options to protect your skin against visible light include large particle titanium dioxide or pigmentary grade physical protection. This means the application turns your skin white. In reality, not many individuals can pull this look off, especially for a daily sunscreen.

For exercise or activity, this method is recommended as the sunscreen has a higher chance of ‘sticking’ as compared to tinted sunscreens. 

How do I find a color match if I have skin of color?

In Australia there are several brands of sunscreen with awesome color matches, they include Elta MD, Ultraviolette & Naked Sundays. Each company offers an array of shades (up to 13), ensuring that color matching is almost perfect. 

SuperGoop & Ilia are available overseas. 

Is sunscreen within my makeup good enough?

If you have melasma & or hyperpigmentation, the answer is no. Most make-ups will be rated as an SPF of 15+. For melasma & pigmentation, you will require a SPF of 30 at minimum, 50+ ideally.  A simple solution is to combine a stand-alone sunscreen with your makeup. 

What makeup does really well is to protect your skin against HEV or blue-visible light as it contains iron-oxides. 

I don’t go outside, do I still need sunscreen?

Unless you live like a vampire, the answer is yes (in the context of melasma, not in general). Why? Because if you can see natural light, it has an impact on your skin. Again this is in the context of melasma (not photoaging or skin cancer mitigation). Pigment cells are highly susceptible to stimulation via UV & visible light. 

Everyone ventures outside as part of activities of daily living- hanging clothes, going to the letter box, throwing out the garbage, going to the shops…etc. Even during Covid quarantine, people get ambient exposure. 

Form a habit. A habit protects you from incidental UV & visible light exposure. Just do it. 

How do I know if I am using enough?

To cut the long story short- one 50 ml tube – bottle should last a normal person less than one month (at the very least). For melasma patients, if this lasts longer than 2-3 weeks you are under applying sunscreen. 

Does sunscreen branding matter?

In the scheme of things, no. Just use it. As previously stated you have 2 ways around it.

1. Translucent non-tinted SPF 50 in addition to mineral or liquid foundation. 
2. Tinted sunscreen. 

It is the AMOUNT & frequency that matters. Once you have achieved this, you can fine tune the brand. 

What is the best melasma sunscreen for water activities?

Ideally a pigmentary grade waterproof titanium dioxide formulation is best. This leaves an opaque white sheen, it is not fashionable, but it works. 

Other options include zinc oxide paste &  Surf Mud tinted (better). The latter has iron oxide & zinc oxide that is waterproof. 

*Tip: if you are using your daily SPF for activities, it is not enough. 

Are Korean sunscreens any good?

By large, Koreans produce awesome sunscreens & skincare products. Though they are not TGA approved, sunscreen testing in Korea is stringent, & hence their UVB & UVA protection can come highly recommended. 

Beauty of Joseon makes awesome photoprotective products, however they are skewed towards lighter skin shades- think type 1-3 skin. The two flagship products include-

Relief Sun sunscreen, SPF 50+, lightweight organic sunscreen. 

Matt Stick applicator that has high UVA coverage, SPF 50+.

*For opaque sunscreens that do not have tinting, you will still require a layer of iron oxide to protect against HEV/visible light. Foundation makeup over sunscreen can be used for additional photoprotection. 

Does light from the TV, monitors or phone play a role in melasma?

In practical terms, no. You receive far more radiation in the car or even looking out the window. If you can see natural light, you are getting radiation. Concentrate on protection of UV and high energy visible light received naturally, in contrast to radiation from devices. 

Are aerosol sunscreens good for melasma?

They are better than nothing, but not good enough because they do not have tinting (lacks iron oxides). On the flip side, if you use this on top of your makeup (which has iron oxides), then they offer another layer of UVB and UVA protection. 

What about sunscreen sticks?

Sticks are another awesome way to protect yourself from UV & visible light. Sticks are great for reapplication in melasma prone patients * to address specific areas of pigmentation such as the cheekbones & upper lip. A tinted stick is best. 

MDSolarsciences Solar Stick is a great mineral stick with SPF 40 that is tinted. 

• Water resistant up to 80 minutes
• Safe for sensitive skin

Another stick application that we endorse is Elta MD sunscreen stick. 

*I am referring to treatment of melasma pigment only, most people don’t ‘stick apply the entire face, that’s not practical & it takes too much time

Are sunscreens that contain vitamin C, E & ferulic acid any good?

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E) & ferulic acid are powerful antioxidants. These compounds protect against free radical damage. Additionally vitamin C can reduce pigment production, especially in melasma patients. 

Though these formulations are novel, their absolute concentration is much less than stand alone formulations such as CE Ferulic Acid. Our take? First layer on a combination serum (CE Ferulic), followed by sunscreen. 

What is polypodium extract & how does it work?

Polypodium extract is a powerful antioxidant with some photoprotective action. It can be ingested orally (tablets) or as an additive in sunscreen – Heliocare brand with Fernblock. 

We prefer patients to consider oral supplementation of polypodium extract (ideally 480 to 550 mg twice a day), in conjunction with their sunscreen of choice. Oral polypodium has more evidence behind it, as compared to topical found in sunscreens. 

What about niacinamide in sunscreens?

Novel. Much like vitamin C & E, vitamin B3 can be found in sunscreens. Niacinamide can reduce skin irritation as it is an anti-inflammatory. It is a mild antioxidant & has, in theory, photoprotective roles.

Oral supplementation is more effective, again it is the amount of sunscreen & application frequency that is most important in melasma patients.  

*Oral dose of 500 mg vitamin B3 twice daily may reduce the risk of certain skin cancers by as much as 23%

What about vitamin D levels & sunscreen?

Pop a vitamin D supplement if your levels are down. We take vitamin C, E, & even apply vitamin A (retinol & retinoids), so what is the big deal with vitamin D supplementation? Low vitamin D levels is just a lame excuse not to use sunscreen. 

Will my melasma respond if I am compliant with sunscreens?

Your odds go up to 80-85% with a combination of absolute photoprotection, pigment correctors, as well lasers. 15 to 20% of melasma is resistant to treatment, despite optimal compliance. A higher rate of melasma resistance is seen in-

• Darker skin patients
• Low contrast melasma
• Dermal melasma
• Melasma of the upper lip
• Melasma in males

What does a typical melasma treatment program look like?

AM: Vitamin C (as tolerated), SPF

Afternoon: Reapply SPF

PM: Pigment corrector

Every two weeks: Pico lasers (4-8 sessions) 

What other skin care actives can help correct melasma?

The usual pigment correctors apply. Once you have understood & practiced proper sunscreen application, you can graduate to pigment inhibitors. They include-

• HQ in rotation therapy. 
• Ascorbic acid +/- ferulic acid 10-20% vitamin C
• Vitamin E (with C & ferulic), mainly as an antioxidant
• Arbutin (Alpha over beta)
• Kojic acid in low concentrations
• Azelaic acid 20% lotion
• Licorice root extracts
• Cystemaine 5 to 7% short contact
• Exfoliants are useful – lactic, glycolic, citric & salicylic acids
• Niacinamide for melasma patients with sensitive skin
• Retinol or retinoids 
• MelaB3– weak, but readily available

The ideal combination depends on the phase of melasma treatment you are on. Our clinicians at The Melasma Clinic will guide you. 

Does a lesser SPF sourced overseas sunscreen offer as much protection as Australian sunscreens?

It depends on the sunscreen & the way it is tested. All sunscreens should be tested at 2 mg/cm2 to ascertain the SPF rating (value assigned to sunburn time). For melasma it is more complex than that, namely we need to take into account UVA & visible light values. Refer to the question on UVA measurement below. 

How is UVA protection measured & is it important?

In the context of protecting against sunburn, UVA has a lesser importance than UVB, in the context of sorting out your melasma, UVA blocking is critical. 

Measuring UVA protection in sunscreen involves several methods and standards. The most common ones are:

Critical Wavelength Method: This test measures the wavelength at which the sunscreen transmits 90% of the UV radiation. A critical wavelength of 370 nm or higher indicates broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB) protection.

Boots Star Rating System: Measures UVA protection relative to UVB protection. It assigns a rating from 0 to 5 stars based on the ratio of UVA to UVB protection.

UVA Protection Factor. This method uses in vitro techniques to assess the absorbance of UVA radiation by the sunscreen. The UVAPF value indicates the level of UVA protection.

FDA (U.S.):  Requires sunscreens labeled as “broad-spectrum” to have a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm and a certain ratio of UVA to UVB protection.

Australia/New Zealand: Uses a combination of PPD and critical wavelength methods to assess UVA protection.

By using these methods, manufacturers can accurately determine and label the UVA protection level of their sunscreens.

What about VL or blue light protection, how is it measured?

Measuring the protection provided by iron oxides in sunscreen against visible light involves evaluating the sunscreen’s ability to block or absorb visible light wavelengths (400–700 nm). 

As of 2025, there are no International guidelines regarding labeling of inactive compounds in sunscreen; this includes iron oxide in sunscreen. A practical approach is to use the darkest tint on your skin so you don’t look weird. 

Here is the check list for sunscreen application.

Action it, revisit it in 2 weeks, & fine tune it. 

• Apply correct amount – 2 finger lengths for face & neck
• Frequency is twice daily regardless of sun-exposure 
• Use tinted sunscreen as a daily
• Use total block out (white residue) for activity
• Never miss an application 

Once you have achieved this, you can then fine tune your choices to add antioxidants, high UVA1 protection & better blue light protection (higher iron oxides) as well as IR protection. 

What is a simple melasma treatment protocol that involves sunscreen?

OK, now that you got your sunscreen application PERFECT, you can move to ‘pigment correctors.’ A simple guide is-

AM: Sunscreen 

Midday: Reapplication

PM: Azelaic acid 10-20% nightly

That is as simple as it gets. Take a photo BEFORE this program, follow it, then retake a photo 8 weeks after. If you are doing it right, there is a 50% chance your melasma pigment will be better. For more results, visit us (pending availability of appointments). 

What are the implications of TGA & sunscreens in Australia?

Individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II have lower natural defenses against UVB, hence requiring higher levels of sun protection. These lighter skin types are at increased risk for sunburn, DNA damage and skin cancer.

In contrast, darker skin types (Fitzpatrick III to VI) have better natural protection against UVB but are more prone to hyperpigmentation caused by VL and UVA1. In the context of solving pigmentation, concentrate less on the UVB rating & more on UVA & VL protection. 

The Australasian College of Dermatologists recommends using sunscreen with an SPF 50 or higher. For optimal coverage, sunscreen should be applied at a thickness of 2 mg/cm², which corresponds to approximately 35 ml for full-body application.

SPF ratings primarily measure protection against UVB and to a lesser extent UVA2. However, they do not account for UVA1 or VL protection. 

Nanosized and micronized formulations of these inorganic filters are more cosmetically appealing but offer less protection against UVA and VL. In contrast, larger opaque pigments offer better protection against VL-induced photodermatoses. They are less prone to light-induced reactions, making them non-toxic and non-allergenic (49). However, they can leave a chalky appearance, which can be a concern for skin of color individuals

The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) regulates primary sunscreens and some secondary products like SPF15+ skincare cosmetics or moisturizers. Only safety-assessed ingredients are approved for use in sunscreens.

Emerging trends show an increase in the availability of overseas sunscreens through online sales, which can impact consumer choices. However, it is crucial to note that while these overseas-branded sunscreens may offer cosmetic elegance and high SPF ratings, they are not approved by the TGA as their effectiveness has not been tested.

In my personal opinion, whilst we do require a governing body, the TGA is focused on sunscreens for lighter skin types. TGA, like Medicare, is a racist organization, focused on treating skin conditions of lighter skin types, with much less emphasis on treatment of darker skin individuals.  

What do the studies show?

There have been several studies highlighting the importance of sunscreen in the management of melasma:

1. A randomized study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2001)investigated the effects of using broad-spectrum sunscreen in patients with melasma. The study found that consistent sunscreen use significantly reduced melasma severity and prevented further pigmentation.
2. In a study by Goh et al. (1996) in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, sunscreen combined with hydroquinone treatment showed a marked improvement in melasma. The group using sunscreen alone also saw significant benefits, suggesting that sunscreen plays a critical role in both the prevention and treatment of melasma.
3. A 2013 study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology explored the effects of sunscreen application alone. The results demonstrated that patients who used broad-spectrum sunscreen daily had less pigmentation and a reduced risk of melasma recurrence.
4. A study in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2014) emphasized that daily application of high-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential for maintaining treatment results in melasma patients. It suggested that patients who did not consistently use sunscreen experienced higher rates of recurrence.

These studies collectively underscore the critical role of daily sunscreen application in managing melasma, both in preventing its onset and reducing the risk of recurrence after treatment.