Arbutin

What is the summary?

• Arbutin is a useful pigment inhibitor
• It is best used in combination with other skin care actives. 
• The optimal concentration is 1-2%. 
• It is well tolerated & can be used long term. 
• Arbutin can treat melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation & brighten skin.

What is arbutin?

Arbutin inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is crucial for the synthesis of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. It is a naturally derived compound which is converted to a glycosylated form of hydroquinone. 

What does arbutin serum do?

With regular use, arbutin serum helps to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of pigmentation, & brighten the complexion. By consistently using an arbutin serum as part of your skincare routine, you can achieve a more even, brighter complexion while minimizing the appearance of dark spots & discoloration.

What types of pigmentation can arbutin serum treat?

Arbutin serum can treat many forms of skin pigmentation including-

• Melasma
• Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Sun & age related pigmentation
• Freckling

How long does it take for arbutin to work?

Whilst the effects of arbutin on the pigment inhibiting enzyme is immediate, the best effects (if any), take weeks to months. 

Combination treatment with other ingredients, chemical peels & lasers increases the efficacy rate & results of arbutin.

What products that contain arbutin are worth considering?

Combination pigment correctors work best. A good combination skin care product used best during the rotational phase of melasma is MelaCream. This formulation contains a mix of arbutin, niacinamide, phytic acid, retinol, botanicals & skincare acids.

A stand alone formulation with arbutin 2% with HA is via The Ordinary. At around $30 it can be considered as a basic budget pigment treatment.

How to integrate arbutin into your melasma treatment program?

Two ways to use this for melasma. Firstly as a stand alone ingredient (1-2% arbutin), combined with sunscreen. This can help reduce pigmentation, however combination treatments with medical therapy, chemical peels & pico lasers will deliver far superior results. 

Our clinicians employ this ingredient in a rotational manner, namely to cycle your skin care routine over a period of weeks to months. Depending on the state of your pigment, we combine arbutin with ascorbic, azelaic acid & other pigment correctors.

How good is arbutin compared to hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone is better however HQ is associated with side effects such as rebound pigmentation, skin irritation & pigment resistance. A small amount of arbutin is converted to HQ, however the side effect profile is negligible. HQ should be monitored by your physician. 

How good is arbutin vs ascorbic acid?

Arbutin and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) are both popular skin-lightening agents, but they work differently and have distinct characteristics.

Arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone derivative that inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production in the skin. By reducing melanin production, arbutin helps to lighten hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. Arbutin is generally well-tolerated and suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. It tends to be less irritating than other depigmenting agents like hydroquinone & ascorbic acid..

Ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant that helps to brighten the skin by reducing melanin formation, neutralizing free radicals, and promoting collagen synthesis. It also protects the skin from UV-induced damage. Vitamin C is also generally safe for most skin types, but its high acidity can sometimes cause irritation, particularly for sensitive skin. It is often recommended to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase.

Ascorbic acid often shows quicker results in terms of brightening the skin and improving radiance due to its antioxidant properties. Arbutin, on the other hand, works more slowly and steadily to reduce hyperpigmentation.

While both ingredients help with pigmentation, ascorbic acid offers added benefits such as collagen stimulation and protection against UV damage, making it a more comprehensive anti-aging ingredient.

These ingredients can be used together in a skincare routine, with arbutin focusing on pigmentation and ascorbic acid providing overall skin brightening and antioxidant protection.

Ultimately, the choice between arbutin and ascorbic acid may depend on your specific skin concerns, sensitivity, and the desired speed of results. Some individuals may benefit from incorporating both into their skincare regimen for a more comprehensive approach to managing hyperpigmentation and enhancing skin brightness.

How good is arbutin vs tranexamic acid?

TA po is better than arbutin, however it has significant medical implications. 

When used together,  topical alpha arbutin & tranexamic acid can complement each other’s effects and provide a more powerful solution for reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Both ingredients, used topically, are considered safe and effective for most skin types.

Is arbutin better than retinol?

Arbutin is a more focused ingredient than retinol for pigmentation. Retinol is better as an anti-aging molecule as it has more collagen building potential, whilst it has a weak anti-pigment role. 

Which is better; niacinamide or arbutin?

Arbutin is better than niacinamide for pigment, however niacinamide is a better skin care ingredient if you have sensitive skin or inflammation. Niacinamide has weaker pigment inhibition activity compared to arbutin, ascorbic acid, hydroquinone & ascorbic acid.

Can I use arbutin long term?

Long term safety data is lacking, however the general consensus is that the amount of arbutin converted to hydroquinone is small, hence concentrations of 2% or less is safe (or safer) for long term use. 

Can arbutin be used in pregnancy?

Short answer- it’s deemed relatively safe, however there are no FDA-TGA guidelines as of 2025. Since it is converted to a glycosylated hydroquinone, it has less harmful potential compared to HQ. More on the safety data of arbutin & skin care in pregnancy. 

What are the side effects of arbutin?

Arbutin is generally well-tolerated, but it can have some side effects, especially if used improperly or in high concentrations (>2-3%) Common side effects include:

Skin Irritation: Some people may experience redness, itching, or mild irritation, particularly those with sensitive skin.

Allergic Reactions: Though rare, some individuals might develop an allergic reaction, which can present as swelling, hives, or severe redness.

Increased Sun Sensitivity: Very rarely arbutin can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays, increasing the risk of sunburn. It’s recommended to use sunscreen when using products containing arbutin.

Risk of Hydroquinone Formation: Arbutin can break down into hydroquinone, a more potent skin-lightening agent that has been associated with ochronosis (a bluish-black discoloration of the skin) when used over long periods or in high doses. However, the risk is generally lower with arbutin compared to hydroquinone itself. Risk level; extremely low & negligible if concentrations less than or equal to 2% arbutin. 

Temporary Darkening: In some cases, especially at the beginning of treatment, arbutin can cause temporary darkening of the skin before the lightening effect becomes noticeable. Risk level; very low.  This occurs because it blocks the release of synthesized melanin out of the cell, thereby causing the accumulation of melanin inside the cell. 

What can’t be mixed with arbutin?

Be cautious about mixing arbutin with certain other ingredients to avoid irritation or reduce its effectiveness. Here are some combinations to avoid:

High Concentrations of Acids (AHAs/BHAs): While arbutin can be used with mild acids, pairing it with high concentrations of AHAs (like glycolic acid) or BHAs (like salicylic acid) can increase skin irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Our advice? Titrate the use- namely apply every second night, increase or decrease as tolerated. 

Retinoids: Combining arbutin with retinoids (like retinol or tretinoin) can lead to excessive dryness, irritation, and peeling due to the strong exfoliating action of retinoids.

Vitamin C: Arbutin can be used with Vitamin C in some cases, but both are potent ingredients. If your skin is sensitive, using them together might lead to irritation. It’s best to introduce them slowly into your routine or use them at different times of the day (e.g., Vitamin C in the morning and arbutin at night).

What do the studies say about arbutin?

In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind trial involving 102 women aged 26–55 with melasma and solar lentigines, researchers assessed the depigmenting efficacy of arbutin derived from Serratulae quinquefoliae. The study group (n = 54) applied a cream containing the plant extract, with a final arbutin concentration of 2.51%, twice daily on the affected area for 8 weeks. Results showed a significant reduction in melanin levels in the treatment group, decreasing from 182.60 ± 39.41 to 168.76 ± 36.30 (p < 0.000001). In contrast, the control group (n = 48), which used a placebo cream, showed no significant change in melanin levels. Clinical improvement was observed in 75.86% of participants with melasma and 56.00% with solar lentigines.

Morag M., Nawrot J., Siatkowski I., Adamski Z., Fedorowicz T., Dawid-Pac R., Urbanska M., Nowak G. A double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of Serratulae quinquefoliae folium, a new source of beta-arbutin, in selected skin hyperpigmentations. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2015;14:185–190.