Niacinamide

What is the summary?

• Niacinamide has many roles including pigment reduction, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory properties & repair of skin barrier
• Niacinamide is one of the best ingredients for pigmentation in patients with sensitive skin
• Ascorbic acid is better than niacinamide, but has more skin irritation
• Niacinamide can be combined with many pigment correctors 
• It is best used in combination therapy

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a versatile natural skincare ingredient celebrated for its ability to address various skin concerns. 

It helps improve skin texture by enhancing the skin barrier, reducing the appearance of enlarged pores, and balancing oil production. Niacinamide is effective in brightening skin tone, reducing hyperpigmentation, & diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating acne & reducing redness. 

Niacinamide is also an antioxidant, which means it helps protect the skin from environmental stressors like UV rays & pollution.

Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types and can be easily incorporated into any skincare routine, providing broad-spectrum benefits for overall skin health.

How good is it for pigment & what types of pigment can niacinamide treat?

Niacinamide can potentially treat the following types of pigmentation. 

• Melasma
• Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Sun & age related pigmentation

Niacinamide is best employed for treating pigmentation in patients with sensitive skin conditions such as active acne, dermatitis & rosacea. If you have normal skin, we suggest using a better pigment corrector. Read more to understand.

How long does it take for niacinamide to work?

Niacinamide typically takes about 6 to 10 weeks to show noticeable improvements in the skin. The timeframe can vary depending on the specific skin concern being treated. For example:

Hyperpigmentation or dark spots: You may start seeing a reduction in discoloration within 4 weeks, but more significant improvements are often seen after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use.

Acne & redness: Some people notice a reduction in inflammation and breakouts within 2 to 4 weeks.

Skin texture & reducing pore size: It may take up to 8 weeks to see more refined skin texture and minimize pores.

Consistency in application is key to achieving the best results with niacinamide. For pigment, there are far better ingredients, read more.

How good is niacinamide compared to retinol?

Niacinamide & retinol are both powerful skincare ingredients, but they work in different ways and are often used for different skin concerns.Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is known for its anti-inflammatory & soothing properties. It helps improve skin barrier function, reduce redness, minimize pore size, and even out skin tone. It’s effective for treating acne, reducing hyperpigmentation, and improving skin texture. It is well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s non-irritating and can be used twice daily, making it suitable for everyday use.

Retinol (Vitamin A derivative) is renowned for its anti-aging properties. It accelerates cell turnover, boosts collagen production, and helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Retinol is also effective for treating acne and improving overall skin texture. Retinol can be irritating, especially when first introduced. It can cause dryness, redness, and peeling, particularly for those with sensitive skin. It’s typically recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as the skin builds tolerance.

Retinol is generally considered more potent for anti-aging & skin resurfacing, while niacinamide is more focused on calming the skin, reducing redness, and improving the overall skin barrier.

Bottom line? While both niacinamide and retinol are beneficial, they serve different roles in skincare. Niacinamide is a gentler option suitable for most skin types, while retinol is a stronger, more transformative ingredient but requires careful usage due to potential irritation.

How good is niacinamide vs ascorbic acid?

Niacinamide & ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) are both popular ingredients for treating hyperpigmentation, but they work differently and have unique benefits.

Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin (pigment) within the skin, helping to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone over time. It has anti-inflammatory properties in addition to pigment reducing capabilities. Niacinamide is highly stable and can be used in both morning and evening routines without concern for light or air exposure. It pairs well with a wide range of other active ingredients, including retinol and peptides, and is less likely to cause irritation.

Ascorbic acid brightens the skin by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. It also neutralizes free radicals and boosts collagen production, contributing to overall skin radiance and firmness.

Ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable and can degrade when exposed to light, heat, or air. It’s usually recommended for use in the morning, followed by sunscreen, to protect the skin from UV damage. Unlike niacinamide, Vitamin C can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin, and may not pair well with certain ingredients like retinol due to its low pH.

Both niacinamide and ascorbic acid are effective for reducing hyperpigmentation, but they work best when used together. Niacinamide focuses on preventing new pigment from reaching the surface, while ascorbic acid helps lighten existing dark spots.

Niacinamide is gentler and more suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive skin, while ascorbic acid is more potent but can be irritating, particularly for those with sensitive or reactive skin.

In conclusion, while both ingredients are effective for treating pigmentation, niacinamide is gentler and more versatile, while ascorbic acid is more potent but may require careful handling and layering.

How do we rate sunscreens with niacinamide?

Sunscreens with niacinamide are novel solutions to pairing SPF with antioxidants in the one convenient application. As a whole, we endorse this combination (as the theory behind this is sound). 

Recommended brands include Propaira SPF 50 & Cerave Hydrating Mineral sunscreen fortified with niacinamide, ceramides & hyaluronic acid. 

*Note: the biggest rate limiting factor for sunscreens is NOT the addition of ‘actives’ such as niacinamide, polypodium & other ingredients, it is the AMOUNT of sunscreen that you apply & the FREQUENCY of application. Concentrate on twice daily application of a tinted sunscreen factor 50+, amount of two finger lengths BEFORE buying into novel formulations & marketing crap.

Which is better; niacinamide or arbutin?

Arbutin is better than niacinamide for pigment, however niacinamide is a better skin care ingredient if you have sensitive skin or inflammation. 

Niacinamide has weaker pigment inhibition activity compared to arbutin, ascorbic acid, hydroquinone & ascorbic acid.

Can I use niacinamide long term?

Yes. Unlike hydroquinone, niacinamide can be used long term without any complications. 

Can niacinamide be used in pregnancy?

Yes, vitamins B (niacinamide) & vitamin C (ascorbic acid) can be safely used in pregnancy. 

Safe pigment correctors in pregnancy include: Vitamin B, C, E, azelaic acid, botanicals. 

Ingredients not recommended in pregnancy include: Vitamin A / retinol/retinoids, hydroquinone. 

What is an example of a niacinamide skin care routine for treating melasma?

A simple melasma skincare routine is as follows: 

AM: Niacinamide 10% prior to application of sunscreen SPF 50+ tinted.

Midday: Sunscreen reapplication, lotion, stick or spray.

PM: Niacinamide 10%. That’s it.

Note: The greatest traction of any melasma skincare routine is the correct application of sunscreen. This has a much greater impact on melasma than any marketing objective of any skin care ingredient. 

What do the studies say about niacinamide & pigmentation?

Here are the findings from a paper entitled ‘A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma’, published in Dermatology Research and Practice Volume 2011, Article ID 379173, 5 pages. 

Various treatments for melasma have yielded mixed results. Niacinamide, known for its anti-inflammatory properties, can reduce the transfer of melanosomes.

Objective: To compare the effects of topical niacinamide and hydroquinone (HQ) in treating melasma.

Patients and Methods: Twenty-seven patients with melasma participated in an eight-week study where they applied 4% niacinamide cream on one side of their face and 4% HQ cream on the other. Sunscreen was used throughout the study. Patients were evaluated using noninvasive skin color assessments, subjective scales, and histological analysis before and after treatment.

Results:Both treatments led to pigment improvement in all patients. Although colorimetric measurements showed no significant differences between the treatments, 44% of patients experienced good to excellent improvement with niacinamide, compared to 55% with HQ. Niacinamide significantly reduced mast cell infiltration and improved solar elastosis in melasma-affected skin. Side effects were reported in 18% of niacinamide users and 29% of HQ users.

Conclusion: Niacinamide is a safe and effective treatment for melasma, reducing pigmentation, inflammation, and solar elastosis.

Niacinamide application (4%).