Benefits
Work with
When to use
Caution with
What is the summary?
- Salicylic acid is an Beta Hydroxy Acid
- It can be used as a clinical peel in concentrations of 10%-30%
- Salicylic acid washes are 1.5 to2% BHA
- Salicylic acid’s role is to exfoliate the skin
- Exfoliation brightens skin by reducing pigmentation
- Exfoliation also potentiates the absorption of other topicals
- Salicylic acid is best use to treat post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Its use in melasma pigmentation is limited
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) primarily used in skincare for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily. This makes it particularly effective for treating acne, blackheads, and oily skin.
Additionally, salicylic acid can penetrate deep into pores to clear out excess oil and debris. Its anti-inflammatory effects help reduce redness and swelling, and it is commonly found in acne treatments, exfoliating cleansers, and chemical peels for smoother, clearer skin.
What types of pigment can salicylic acid treat?
Salicylic acid is best for Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation secondary to acne. Chemical exfoliation reduces blackheads & expedites pigment clearance. Other conditions can can benefit from BHA peels include-
- Melasma
- Sun & age related pigmentation
- Acanthosis nigricans, mixed pigment
- Ethnic skin lightening & brightening
How long does it take for salicylic acid to work?
Results are seen at about 2 to 4 weeks, however it may take up to 10-12 weeks for maximal effects. The fastest results are seen with higher concentration BHA peels, ranging from 20 to 30%. Home use BHA washes are 1.5 to 2% salicylic acid.
*Best results are for PIH due to acne, salicylic acid washes do not work for melasma pigment.
How often should I use salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid can be used via 3 ways. The best way depends on your aims, your skin sensitivity & your current skin care routine.
- Daily. Most popular with BHA washes such as Neutrogena or Cerave. Acne prone skin can tolerate twice daily use in most cases.
- With other skin care products (premixed), with HQ or novel formulations such as Superfade.
- In a pulsed or skin cycling manner, once every week to month, BHAs are often combined with AHAs such as glycolic acid.
What is the difference between salicylic acid peels & salicylic acid washes?
In office peels have a much higher concentration, ranging from 10 to 30%. These peels produce redness & pseudofrosting on application, with a variable downtime of 1-3 days.
Home salicylic acid serums & washes have lower concentrations, with the maximum of 1.5 to 3%. This prevents or reduces chemical burns from overzealous use (or stupidity).
How good is glycolic acid compared to salicylic acid?
Glycolic acid, an AHA, exfoliates the skin’s surface, improving texture, tone, & addressing signs of aging. It’s best suited for normal to dry skin.
Salicylic acid, a BHA, penetrates deeper into pores, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin by clearing out clogs and reducing breakouts. Glycolic acid is more effective for pigment & anti-aging and overall skin smoothness, while salicylic acid excels in treating acne and preventing future breakouts. Both acids have their strengths, depending on the skin concern being addressed.
Learn more about skin exfoliation.
Ingredient |
Function |
How we rate it for pigment |
Adjunctive roles |
---|---|---|---|
Glycolic acid | Exfoliant | Good | Increase penetration of others |
Salicylic acid | Exfoliant | Moderate | Anti-acne |
Does salicylic acid have any side effects?
Side effects depends on –
- Concentration & frequency of use.
- Your skin’s innate sensitivity.
- What other ingredients you are using.
If you suffer from rosacea, dermatitis, or reactive skin, we suggest you don’t play around with acids, acknowledging that low concentrations of BHAs are anti-inflammatory.Here is how to reduce side effects-
- Start with a low concentration of salicylic acid – 1.5% by Cerave.
- Use once daily, avoid other irritants such as HQ, retinol, retinoids, ascorbic acid.
- Increase as tolerated.
- Moisturize after washing.
*Side effects are much higher with salicylic acid chemical pees. Be guided by your skincare expert when it comes to frequency of use, concentration & mixing with other skin care ingredients.
What is an example of a skin care routine using salicylic for treating melasma?
A simple melasma skincare routine is as follows:
AM: Ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, SPF
Midday: Sunscreen reapplication, lotion, stick or spray.
PM: 1.5% salicylic acid wash (as tolerated) prior to the application of your pigment corrector of choice.
Note: The greatest traction of any melasma skincare routine is the correct application of sunscreen. This has a much greater impact on melasma than any marketing objective of any skin care ingredient.
What are the best formulations & brands of salicylic acid?
Here are Dr Davin Lim’s favorites.
Paula’s Choice: The 25% AHA & 2% BHA plays the numbers game. It’s refreshing to see that this company advocates pulse therapy.
Synergie ReVeal with 13% AHA & 2% BHA.
However, it is twice as expensive as Elucent but equally as good. Rationale also makes great skin acids, however if you know Richard Parker’s formulations, they have been ‘watered down’ over the years to cater for mainstream skin care, rather than niche dermatology skin care.
The Ordinary: produces a 2% salicylic acid mask. It costs $22 AUD.
Washes include Neutrogena or Cerave wash with ceramides.
What do the studies say about salicylic acid for melasma?
Here are some clinical studies related to the use of salicylic acid in the treatment of melasma:
Several studies have examined the effectiveness of salicylic acid for melasma treatment, particularly in combination with other ingredients. Salicylic acid is often used in chemical peels to help exfoliate the skin and enhance the penetration of other lightening agents.
Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2018) showed that combined salicylic acid peels with hydroquinone and retinoids improved melasma significantly.
Sarkar et al. (2002) conducted a study showing that 20% salicylic acid peels provided noticeable improvement in melasma when used in combination with glycolic acid peels.
How good is salicylic acid compared to retinol?
Salicylic Acid is a BHA that exfoliates the skin by dissolving the bonds between dead cells on the surface, leading to brighter, smoother skin. In contrast, retinol works deeper in the skin by increasing cell turnover and boosting collagen production, effectively treating acne, fine lines, and wrinkles.
When it comes to exfoliation and brightening, beta hydroxy acid excels by sloughing off dead skin cells. On the other hand, retinol is more versatile, offering stronger anti-aging benefits and improving overall skin health by addressing both surface and deeper skin concerns.
In summary, salicylic acid is your go-to for exfoliation & immediate radiance, while retinol is unmatched for long-term skin health and anti-aging.
Ingredient |
Skin irritation potential |
How we rate it for pigment |
Adjunctive roles |
---|---|---|---|
Salicylic acid | Low | Poor | Exfoliant |
Retinol | Moderate | Poor to moderate | Collagen builder Anti-acne Anti-aging |
Does salicylic acid lighten skin?
Daily use of salicylic acid is a good way to lighten & brighten skin, especially in combination with lactic, glycolic & tranexamic acids.
Skin lightening is best achieved with a combination of lasers, peels, skin care & oral supplementation of antioxidants such as glutathione & polypodium.
Are salicylic acid peels the best for melasma pigmentation?
A few studies have backed up salicylic acid peels in combination with other ingredients for melasma pigmentation, however in the context of what is offered at our clinic, BHA peels have very limited value for melasma.
We prefer novel formulations of peeling agents. These peels include-
-
- Cosmelan
- Dermamelan
- Vi Precision Plus
In our experience novel peels are far more effective in melasma, however BHA peels are good for non-melasma pigmentation, especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Can salicylic acid be used in pregnancy?
Salicylic, glycolic, lactic, mandelic & azelaic acids can be safely used in pregnancy.
Ingredients not recommended in pregnancy include: Vitamin A / retinol/retinoids, hydroquinone.
*Salicylic acid in concentrations of 1.5 to 2% washes. BHA peels are not usually performed in pregnancy.
A Summary | Davin’s viewpoint on salicylic acid for pigmentation
Dr Davin Lim | Dermatologist
The Melasma Clinic, Brisbane | Sydney
Incorporating skincare acids into a skin care routine can yield great results. Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA) peels are effective for treating hyperpigmentation due to their ability to penetrate deep into the pores. Salicylic acid exfoliates the skin, helps unclog pores, and promotes the shedding of dead skin cells, which can reduce dark spots and even out skin tone over time.
In my practice, salicylic acid peels are often used for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation over melasma, especially when combined with other brightening agents. For enlarged pores, salicylic acid washes can be combined with Rejuran injectables, mandelic acids & pico laser toning.