Mela Cream

What is the summary?

• Novel combination of key ingredients to treat melasma pigmentation
• Convenient once daily application, well tolerated
• No long term issues
• Best combined with pico lasers & or novel chemical peels
• Mela Cream is best used during the maintenance phase of melasma treatment

What is Mela Cream?

Mela Cream is a mixture of pigment correctors that come prepackaged in standard concentrations. Think of it as a tube full of pigment inhibitors made by Dermaceutic. 

The main active ingredient for pigment are-’

• Kojic acid
• Arbutin
• Licorice root
• Retinol
• Exfoliants 
• Antioxidants
• Retinol 

Mela Cream is fragrance free, vegan & silicone free.

What is Mela Cream used for?

Mela Cream can reduce the appearance of pigment & age spots. It can be effective in treating melasma & post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Mela Cream can even out complexion & homogenize skin tone. 

How good is it?

This cream is packed full of science, so it can be effective in most types of pigmentation. Skin lightening can be achieved in –

• Melasma
• Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Dark acne marks 
• Age spots

Disclaimer: our clinicians prescribe much more effective topicals, however we still use Mela Cream as part of our rotational therapy for pigment disorders. 

When will I see results?

3-8 weeks, depending on your type & depth of melasma pigmentation, as well as adjunctive therapy. Mela Cream works best on superficial melasma, it has little to no impact on deep dermal melasma or resistant melasma. 

Does Mela Cream have any side effects?

Unlike hydroquinone the side effects of Mela Cream are minimail. You can use it long term. Mela Cream is well tolerated, however if you have super sensitive skin, you may react to the retinol, kojic or mandelic acid found in this product. 

Can Mela Cream be used on all skin types?

Yes, Mela Cream can be used on all skin types, including darker skin. It has no long term issues. The low irritant potential makes this a stand out choice for melasma patients during their maintenance phase of treatment.

Is Mela Cream safe in pregnancy?

No, Mela Cream contains ingredients such as retinol & kojic acid which are not indicated in pregnancy. Pregnancy compatible ingredients include niacinamide, azelaic & ascorbic acids. 

How do you use mela cream?

Apply once a day on the full face, focusing especially on pigmented areas. If retinol has never been used before, begin 2 times a week, increasing frequency progressively. 

What is a step up from Mela Cream?

Prescriptive skin care with bespoke formulations are much more effective than Mela Cream. They include more powerful ingredients such as higher concentrations of kojic acid, thiamidol, hydroquinone as well as ascorbic acid. 

At The Melasma Clinic we can formulate a tailored home skin care program that pairs well with our chemical peels or lasers. 

What is an example of a skin care routine using Mela Cream for treating melasma?

A simple melasma skincare routine is as follows: 

AM: Ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, SPF

Midday: Sunscreen reapplication, lotion, stick or spray.

PM: Mela Cream nightly as tolerated. 

Note: The greatest traction of any melasma skincare routine is the correct application of sunscreen. This has a much greater impact on melasma than any marketing objective of any skin care ingredient. 

What are the full ingredients?

Retinol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Kojic Acid, Niacinamide, Arbutin, Mandelic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid,, Phytic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Tocopherol, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Polysorbate 20, Ceteareth-12, Glycerin, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Disodium Phosphate, BHA, Dipotassium Phosphate, BHT, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, H20

Does Mela Cream contain hydroquinone?

No, Mela Cream is HQ free, hence why we use it during your maintenance phase of melasma treatment.

How do we cycle Mela Cream with our melasma treatment program?

Our melasma treatment program is divided into two phases- pigment removal, & maintenance. Mela Cream is employed in the maintenance of melasma. 

During your maintenance phase, we incorporate biostimulatory methods to help reverse cellular aging, a cause of melasma pigment. This entails the use of injectables such as Rejuran, Sculptra & hybrid complexes of hyaluronic acids. We also use energy based devices such as thulium lasers, HIFU & Sylfirm X with Mela Cream, often alternating with sirolimus. 

The ideal combination of treatments depends on your age, skin type, degree of photodamage, & your budget. 

What is the science behind the key ingredients of Mela Cream?

Let’s take a look at key ingredients of Mela Cream. They include arbutin, niacinamide, Kojic acid, retinol 

Arbutin

Arbutin is a popular ingredient used to treat melasma and other hyperpigmentation issues due to its ability to inhibit melanin production in the skin. Here’s how it works:

Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity: The main way arbutin helps with melasma is by targeting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is essential for melanin synthesis (the pigment responsible for skin color). Arbutin blocks tyrosinase activity, thereby reducing the formation of melanin. This helps lighten dark patches like melasma over time.

Arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone, but it is considered much safer and gentler on the skin. While hydroquinone is highly effective at reducing pigmentation, it can also cause side effects like skin irritation or ochronosis (a bluish-gray discoloration of the skin) with prolonged use. Arbutin, however, releases hydroquinone slowly and in controlled amounts, making it a milder option with fewer risks.

Overall, arbutin is a well-tolerated and effective ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation, especially in conditions like melasma, when used as part of a comprehensive skincare regimen. It usually takes several weeks to see noticeable improvements, and it is best used with sun protection to prevent further pigmentation.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Inhibits Melanin Transfer: Niacinamide works by preventing the transfer of melanin (pigment) from melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) to keratinocytes (skin cells). This reduces the appearance of dark patches over time and leads to a more even skin tone.

Anti-Inflammatory Properties: It also has anti-inflammatory effects, which are beneficial since inflammation can worsen melasma. Niacinamide soothes the skin and helps reduce redness or irritation.

Strengthens Skin Barrier: It supports the production of ceramides (lipids in the skin barrier), making the skin more resilient and less prone to irritation, especially when using other melasma treatments.

Antioxidant Effect. By neutralizing free radicals, niacinamide helps protect the skin from environmental stressors like UV radiation, which can exacerbate melasma.

Kojic acid

Kojic Acid. Inhibits Tyrosinase Enzyme: Kojic acid is a powerful tyrosinase inhibitor, meaning it blocks the enzyme necessary for melanin production. By directly reducing melanin synthesis, it helps lighten existing hyperpigmentation and prevents new dark spots from forming.

Antioxidant Action. Kojic acid also has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from oxidative stress, which can worsen pigmentation disorders like melasma.

Licorice root extract

Licorice extract is also found in Mela Cream. It is an effective natural ingredient for treating melasma  and other forms of hyperpigmentation due to its active compounds that inhibit pigment formation. Here’s how it works:

Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity. The primary active component in licorice extract is glabridin, which acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Tyrosinase is an enzyme crucial for melanin production. By blocking this enzyme, glabridin helps reduce the formation of melanin, leading to lighter pigmentation and a more even skin tone.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects. Glabridin also has anti-inflammatory properties. Melasma is often worsened by inflammation triggered by factors like sun exposure and hormonal changes. By reducing inflammation, licorice extract helps prevent the overproduction of melanin.

Reduction of Free Radicals. Another component, liquiritin, has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from free radical damage caused by UV rays and environmental stressors. By protecting the skin, licorice helps prevent melanin formation induced by oxidative stress.

Dispersion of Existing Pigment. Liquiritin is also believed to aid in the dispersal and removal of existing melanin, helping lighten dark patches over time.

Retinol 

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is effective in treating melasma due to its multifaceted impact on skin cells and pigmentation. Here’s how it works:

Accelerates Skin Cell Turnover

Retinol promotes faster cell turnover, which means it encourages old, pigmented cells to shed more quickly. This gradual exfoliation helps fade melasma patches over time by bringing newer, unpigmented cells to the surface.

Inhibits Melanin Production

Retinol can reduce melasma by inhibiting the activity of melanocytes (the cells responsible for producing melanin). By modulating the skin’s response to UV exposure and reducing tyrosinase enzyme activity, retinol helps reduce melasma pigmentation.

Boosts Collagen and Skin Barrier Function

Retinol stimulates collagen production and strengthens the skin barrier, leading to healthier and more resilient skin. This improvement in skin texture and health can indirectly benefit melasma by reducing inflammation and preventing pigmentation triggers. It plays a role in treating cellular senescence, which is a key component of mature onset melasma. 

Enhances the Effect of Other Treatments

Retinol is often used in combination with other topical agents, such as hydroquinone, niacinamide, or azelaic acid, to enhance their efficacy in treating melasma. It helps these ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, maximizing their pigment-reducing effects.

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid is an effective treatment for melasma due to its unique properties among alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Here’s how it works:

Gentle Exfoliation

Mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds and has a larger molecular size compared to other AHAs like glycolic acid. This larger size allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly and gently, reducing the risk of irritation. It exfoliates the top layer of skin, helping to remove pigmented cells and revealing fresher, more even-toned skin underneath, which gradually fades melasma patches.

Inhibits Melanin Production- One of the key ways mandelic acid helps with melasma is by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. By reducing tyrosinase activity, mandelic acid helps to prevent the formation of new pigment and decreases the appearance of dark patches over time.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects. Mandelic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, which is crucial for melasma since inflammation can worsen pigmentation. By calming the skin, it reduces the likelihood of pigmentation being triggered by external factors like UV exposure, heat, or irritation.

Does Mela Cream treat dermal melasma?

No, dermal melasma is usually resistant to topical creams as pigmentation is beyond the upper layers of skin. Dermal melasma may respond to a combination of treatments aimed at

Pigment removal. Pico lasers are best, however treatments are tricky to execute with a 50% success rate. 

Our dermatologist combines lasers with Rejuran injectables as well as energy based devices & oral antioxidants.