Exosomes

Exosomes are tiny vesicles secreted by all cells. They carry molecular signaling proteins, acting as messengers between cells. Exosomes play roles in cell communication, immune response, & tissue repair. Their ability to transfer genetic information makes them a focus for new therapies and diagnostics, including improving skin texture, pigmentation & reversing cellular aging. 

Benefits

Pigment corrector

Works with

Lasers & skin care

When to use

Once monthly X 3 months

Caution with

Not all exosomes are equal

Dermatologist science score melasma clinic

What is the summary?

  • Exosome are a trending skin treatment
  • They are useful in treating hair loss & as an anti-aging treatment
  • They have the POTENTIAL to reduce melasma pigment
  • Many other treatments are more effective in the context of pigment treatments
  • Exosomes can be considered as one of the last line therapies for melasma

What types of pigmentation can exosomes treat?

Exosomes can potentially treat many forms of skin pigmentation including-

(Note the word POTENTIALLY as there are many better ways to address pigment.)

What does a treatment program involving exosomes look like?

A TGA approved 🙂 protocol looks like this:

Week 1: Microneedle 0.25 mm + exosomes
Week 4: Microneedle 0.25 mm + exosomes
Week 8: Microneedle 0.25 mm + exosomes 

Maintain every 8 to 12 weeks :Microneedle 0.25 mm + exosomes

How do exosomes work when it comes to pigmentation?

Exosomes, which are small extracellular vesicles secreted by cells, have shown potential in treating skin pigmentation disorders, including melasma and hyperpigmentation. Exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) are particularly of interest due to their ability to regulate various cellular processes.

Regulation of Melanin Production: Exosomes can influence melanogenesis, the process by which melanin is produced in the skin. They do this by delivering molecules like proteins, lipids, and RNAs to melanocytes (the cells responsible for pigment production). These molecules can modulate signaling pathways that either upregulate or downregulate melanin production, depending on the desired outcome.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects: Inflammation can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Exosomes possess anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce the inflammation associated with conditions like melasma, thereby preventing the worsening of pigmentation.

Skin Regeneration: Exosomes promote skin healing and regeneration by encouraging cell proliferation and collagen synthesis. This regenerative effect can help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, reducing the appearance of dark spots and uneven pigmentation.

Research in this area is ongoing, but the results from early studies suggest that exosomes could become a last ditch effort  in the treatment of skin pigmentation issues such as melasma (clutching at straws). 

How are exosomes delivered into the skin?

Exosomes can be delivered into the skin through various methods, some are designed to ensure effective penetration and absorption of these tiny vesicles, whilst others are down right retarded as they are designed to fulfill the low IQ minds of the TGA in Australia. 

Topical Application: Exosome-infused creams, serums, or masks are applied directly to the skin. This method relies on the ability of the exosomes to penetrate the skin’s barrier and reach the deeper layers. In our opinion, you’re wasting time, effort & money with this application. 

Microneedling: This technique involves the use of tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin. Exosomes are applied either during or after the microneedling process, allowing them to penetrate more deeply into the skin. Microneedling also stimulates the skin’s natural healing processes, which can enhance the regenerative effects of exosomes. This method is endorsed by the TGA of Australia, namely to approve one of the most inefficient ways to deliver a drug or molecule into the skin. 

Injection: In some cases, exosomes are directly injected into the skin using fine needles. This method ensures that the exosomes reach the target areas more precisely and can be particularly effective for treating localized pigmentation or for anti-aging treatments. This is the best way to effectively & efficiently deliver drugs into the skin. The bureaucrats at TGA who do not have two neurons that synapse, have not approved efficient delivery via this method. Instead they elect to find one of the most inefficient methods (microneedling) to deliver a drug or molecule into the dermal layers of skin. 

Laser-Assisted Delivery: Fractional lasers can create controlled micro-damage to the skin, improving the absorption of topically applied exosomes. The laser’s heat and energy can also stimulate collagen production, complementing the benefits of the exosomes, just as inefficient as microneedling but with the added upsell of lasers. 

Dermal Infusion Devices: These devices combine exfoliation, extraction, and infusion in one treatment, delivering exosomes deep into the skin while simultaneously clearing away dead skin cells and other barriers to absorption, an example is the Fusion tip of Potenza RFM. This novel system makes more sense than microneedling. Exosomes can be considered in cases of dermal melasma. 

How long does it take for exosomes to work?

The timeframe for seeing results from exosome treatments can vary depending on the individual & the specific condition being treated. 

Improvements can be noticed within a few weeks, with more significant results becoming apparent after 2 to 3 months. This delay is due to the nature of exosomes, as they promote cellular communication & regeneration.

Most patients begin to see initial benefits such as improved texture, reduced inflammation, and a more even skin tone within a month of treatment. Conditions like pigmentation, the full effect might take longer, as it involves the gradual turnover of skin cells and the fading of pigmentation over time.

Hint: if you are serious about melasma pigmentation, you may want to give exosomes a miss. 

Are exosomes worth it?

If you have a budget of $600 to $800 for a single exosome therapy session, or up to $2,200 for three sessions, consider these alternative treatments that offer superior results:

  • One Fraxel HD session, priced at $1,690, delivers significantly better results.
  • General Skin Rejuvenation: Combine Fraxel HD with CO2 laser treatments, costing between $2,400 and $3,900, for much more noticeable improvements.
  • Pigmentation: Consider Pico laser or chemical peels for effective treatment. In fact a pigment corrector (prescriptive) will outperform exosomes 99% of the time. 
  • Volume Loss: Dermal fillers are predictable, reproducible, and safe.
  • Hair Loss: Exosomes may yield better results with fewer side effects than traditional medical therapies or PRP—this is likely the only scenario where exosomes might be preferable over mainstream treatments.

What are the side effects of exosomes?

Exosome treatments, while generally considered safe, can have some potential side effects-

Allergic Reactions: Some individuals may experience allergic reactions to the proteins or other components in exosome preparations. Symptoms can include redness, itching, swelling, or more severe reactions in rare cases. Super rare.

Inflammation: Mild to moderate inflammation at the site of application or injection can occur. This may manifest as redness, swelling, or tenderness and typically resolves within a few days, again super rare. 

Infection: If exosomes are delivered through injections or microneedling, there is a small risk of infection at the treatment site, particularly if proper hygiene protocols are not followed or if your injector spits on the recipient site. 

Hyperpigmentation or Hypopigmentation: Some individuals might experience changes in skin pigmentation, either darkening or lightening of the skin in the treated areas. This is more common in people with darker skin tones. Rare.

Systemic Effects: Although rare, there is a potential for exosomes to have systemic effects if they enter the bloodstream, given that they contain bioactive molecules. However, this is more of a theoretical concern, as most exosome treatments are localized.

What is the difference between plant, animal & human exosomes?

The choice between plant-derived, animal-derived, or human-derived exosomes for skin treatment depends on the specific therapeutic goals, safety profile, individual preferences as well as crappy red tape from various authorities depending on the country of residence. 

Human-derived Exosomes: These are generally considered the most effective for skin-related treatments, including pigmentation issues. They are derived from human cells, such as mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), and are thought to be more compatible with human skin. They contain a complex mix of growth factors, proteins, and RNA that closely resemble those naturally found in human tissues. This high compatibility typically results in better absorption and lower risk of adverse reactions, making them a popular choice for clinical use in anti-aging and pigmentation treatments.

Animal-derived Exosomes: These exosomes are derived from animal cells, such as bovine or porcine sources. They are less commonly used in human applications due to potential concerns about disease transmission, immune reactions, and ethical considerations. However, they may still offer benefits similar to human-derived exosomes, although their use is less established and may carry a higher risk of adverse effects.

Plant-derived Exosomes: Plant-derived exosomes, also known as plant exosome-like nanoparticles, are gaining interest due to their biocompatibility, abundance, and lower risk of immune rejection. They are derived from plants like grapes, ginger, or aloe, and are rich in bioactive compounds. While research on their effectiveness in human skin treatments is still emerging, they are considered safe and are increasingly being explored for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties.

In summary, human-derived exosomes are generally preferred for skin pigmentation treatments due to their high compatibility and established safety profile (you must be mad to inject exosomes derived from apple trees or a Mediterranean cactus plant). 

What do the studies say about exosomes & pigmentation?

Studies on exosomes and pigmentation have shown promising results, indicating their potential effectiveness in treating hyperpigmentation. Here is how they can work in melasma & pigmentation– 

Reduction in Melanin Production: Research suggests that exosomes derived from certain cell types, such as mesenchymal stem cells, can inhibit melanin-pigment synthesis. This is due to their ability to modulate the activity of melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin production, thereby reducing hyperpigmentation. Note: theory vs real life is a different story. 

Promotion of Skin Healing: Exosomes have also been found to promote wound healing and skin regeneration, which indirectly aids in reducing pigmentation by improving overall skin health and facilitating the turnover of pigmented cells.

Potential Mechanisms: The mechanisms by which exosomes exert their depigmenting effects are still under investigation, but they are thought to involve the regulation of melanogenesis-related pathways and the delivery of microRNAs that influence pigmentation.

Exosomes vs tretinoin, which is better?

So, you’re thinking about comparing a $80 tube of tretinoin cream to a bottle of exosomes that costs between $600 to $800? If you opt for three exosome sessions, you’re looking at an investment of around $2,000. Here’s the quick comparison: $80 vs. $2,000. You might expect that something costing 30 times more, like exosomes, would be significantly better than tretinoin, but that’s not the case.

Tretinoin works by binding to retinoid receptors (RAR), triggering well-researched, science-backed cellular changes. Exosomes, on the other hand, work theoretically through cellular messaging, but the results can be inconsistent. 

Exosomes vs Rejuran injectables, which is better?

In the context of the predictable outcome of skin rejuvenation, injectables have far better results compared to exosomes. Injectables include-

  • Rejuran polynucleotide
  • Biostimulators such as Sculptra, Radiesse, Gouri
  • HA such as Profhilo
  • Neurotoxin such as Botox

A SummaryDavin’s viewpoint on exosomes for melasma & pigmentation

Dr Davin Lim | Dermatologist
Sydney, Australia | Sydney

Forget the crap, here’s the summary. If you are serious about melasma pigmentation, forget exosomes. They are one of the last ditch efforts we employ (AKA the kitchen sink) when it comes to treating melasma. How does it really rank in the scheme of pigmentation treatments? Here is the definitive list- 

Better than exosomes list:

Arbutin, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid, hydroquinone, pico laser, T.acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, Rejuran, Q switch lasers, Cosmelan, Dermamelan, Vi Precision Plus peels, Melanopro peels, sunscreens, polypodium, glutathione, bearberry extract, green tea, licorice root extract, novel peels, mud, sand, fairy dust…

Worse than exosome list:

Lemon juice. It’s a short list. 

At The Melasma Clinic we aim to give patients an honest approach to treating melasma pigmentation & skin aging. It is not that we don’t use exosomes (they are used by our dermatologists for hair loss), however in the context of effective pigment solutions they are way, way, way down on the list.